Review: Kebabs are just the beginning at Sako's Mediterrane

[diners]

Is this Reseda or Istanbul? With all the beautifully conceived Turkish delicacies, it's hard to tell.




SPICE-INFUSED and presented with several sauces, the iskender kebab at Sako's Mediterranean Cuisine , a Turkish restaurant in Reseda, sent me straight back to Istanbul's vibrant Beyoglu district, where the aroma of meat-scented smoke wafts through ancient cobblestone streets. Just off the tony boulevard Istiklal Caddesi, the area is packed with dozens of cafes and rotisserie specialists doling out the country's iconic doner kebab -- slices of meat stacked on a big skewer (similar to the Greek gyro and Arab shawarma ) -- and its fancier cousin, the iskender kebab (a plated version).

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